Fashion Show - Autumn 2005

Part 5

1725 Man-about-town
Maker: Mark of Kitty Hats
Model: Mark

This mode shows a gentleman about town in the first quarter of the 18th Century. His fine quality woollen coat is decorated with silver braid and silver buttons. It has the very full skirts fashionable at this time, which fall in pleats just behind the side seams of the body.
The contrasting waistcoat is plain but showing an expanse of expensive cloth across the chest and reaches almost to the same length as the outer coat. As the century progresses the waistcoat becomes shorter in relation to the top coat and the lower edges of the top coat move further away from the centre front.
On his head he wears a 'bag-wig' with side curls. The bulk of the hair on the wig is pulled into a small black silk bag on the back of the neck - hence the name! Underneath the wig, the head would have been shaved to avoid problems with fit, dirt, grease and headlice. Out of doors a gentleman would always cover his head and wig, in this case the common three-cornered hat.

The hand-knitted silk stockings and high-heeled buckle shoes complete the accoutrements of a gentleman, even if his beard marks him out as either a ruffian or a Scotsman!

1745 Highlander
Model: Chas

A demonstration of the method of putting on the great plaid as worn by highland soldiers in the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745.
The linen or wool shirt shown here would have been worn during the day as well as at night. The length of tartan or checked cloth would have used as a blanket at night and then intricately draped on the body for wearing during the day.

The length of wool ( 21' x 5' approx) is laid flat on the ground and then pleated in deep pleats so that each end lays flat. The highlander then lays upon the pleated section with his knees to the outer edge of the cloth.

The two flat ends are now wrapped across the front of the body so that they overlap by about 18"

A wide leather belt is then passed under the the cloth and fastened.

After standing up, the pleats can be seen draping to the floor at the back. The upper section is then tucked into the belt at various points forming pockets and leaving a trailing edge.

This long end is then tied over the shoulder by either a piece of leather or a brooch, depending on the wealth of the wearer.

The long end of the plaid could be wrapped round the shoulders for protection in inclement weather.
A jacket or waistcoat could be worn with this or just a shirt as shown here.

A scots bonnet with a white cockade is worn and on the feet are leather 'currans' - light protection for the feet made from a single piece of leather.

1750 Civilian
Maker: Jilly Jones
Model: Haydn

By the mid 18th Century, the fullness in the coat skirts is reducing and the waistcoat is becoming shorter in relation to the top coat. This plain woollen frock coat would have been worn by a middling class or merchant in town.
He has pretentions of country manners by wearing a pair of riding boots, implying that he has an estate on which to go hunting - a very fashionable sport amongst those with time and money to spend on their country estates in the summer months.

The three-cornered hat is still commonly worn by all classes.
Again here, the beard indicates he is not a true gentleman, but there may be even rougher types on the streets as he ostensibly carries a cane with which to protect himself. However, if it came to a street fight the cane hides a very slender sword with which he can see off all but the most persistent of ruffians!