Fashion Show - Autumn 2005

Part 7

1805 Naval Lieutenant
Maker: Jill of Fredrick & Knights
Model: Eddie

Whilst the ordinary seamen did not have formal uniforms at this time, the naval officers' uniforms had been regulated since the late 18th century.
Here we have an undress uniform for a lieutenant, the next rank up from the most junior midshipman. His dress uniform would be decorated with gold lace but here the detail is a piped edging made of superfine white wool.
The buttons are copies of the original regulation pattern, which differ from rank to rank.

Under the double-breasted coat he wears matching nankeen ( a type of heavy cotton) breeches and waistcoat. In winter climes these could be made of wool.
His headwear is a regulation cocked hat which would have been of this style for all ranks with the difference of gold edging for dress uniforms and higher ranks.
He carries a delicate but effective small sword which is an original period piece and a very close likeness to one in the Maritime Museum in Greenwich.

1860 American Union Infantryman
Maker: Debbie of Debbie Lough costumes
Model: Will/Nigel

There is a very long book of regulations governing the Federal uniforms of the United States during the period of the American Civil War in the 1860s.
In reality this rule book was largley ignored in many units. A good example of this is the way that soldiers would purposely destroy their regulation issue ( and very uncomfortable) 'Hardee' hats, so they could go back to wearing their own headgear.
Another good example is this ' sack' coat - a private purchase. Many soldiers would buy their own clothing, often not regulation, rather than wear their issued uniforms.
The regulation sack coat should have 4 buttons, a standing collar, no external pockets and fasten to the neck. This coat - copied from an original, has none of these features.
The original belonged to Private Yeargason of the 22nd Connetticut volunteers.

The coat is unlined, with 3 pockets at the front and does not fasten to the neck, but folds back in the style of an officer's coat.
Two of the standard federal eagle infantry buttons are missing because Private Yeargason cut them off to make his coat more comfortable.
The coat is worn with regulation sky blue trousers, which fasten by means of paper-backed tin buttons.

1860 American Union Infantryman
Maker: Debbie of Debbie Lough Costumes
Model: Jerry

This is the second regulation uniform of 11th Indiana volunteers ( Wallace's Zouaves )
The first regulation uniform was grey trimmed with red but this was ordered to be changed by the Union War department because of confusion with the enemy who commonly wore grey.
The 2nd uniform was not actually issued, but a clothing allowance was given for soldiers to purchase their own. As can be imagined, this led to a very wide variety of styles and decorations on the jackets!

The coats and waistcoats would vary on colour from blue through to black and the styles varied from separate jackets and waistcoats, to jackets with false front waistcoats.
One can only imagine how diverse the braiding decoration was on each of those jackets depending on the eccentricity of the wearer and the tailor commissioned to make it.